Tuesday, August 22, 2006

Out and about.

Last night i went to Tel Aviv for the evening with my friend Marni. We got a ride in and hung out for a bit before heading to the beach where we got to see the last flickering rays of the sun shimmer across the Mediterranean. Soon after there was a free movie that was showing on the beach (the reason we went in). The movie was an Israeli film called "End of the World, Left" (I think:). Whatever the title was it was probably the best Israeli film I have ever seen. I was so impressed with the quality of the acting, filming, plot, dialogue (from what I understood of the mix of hebrew, english and french). I highly recommend it.

Today after ulpan My friend Mo and I met up and went to lunch in the shuk (market). There is nothing i have witnessed, smelled, or experienced that is quite like the shuk. It is a Jerusalem staple that I have only recently been familiarized with. There is vendor after vendor with anything from clothes to fish to kitchen stuff to spices. It is unreal. It is the cheapest (and at times, like friday afternoon I hear, the most stressful) place to shop in jerusalem. There is something really special about these few square blocks of Jerusalem.

After, we walked to the old city and popped a squat near the kotel and watched people pray and listened to the Muslim call to prayer. We also perused the Arab shuk and i received my first house warming gift - a hooka! I just got my key yesterday for my long term place and i can't wait to move in....TOMORROW! Last word about my day - we found, as we were leaving the old city, a little treasure just outside the Zion Gate. A few doors after the gate there was a door that was a jar...so our curious selves went in and we found a plot of olive trees, pomegranates. There were grapes that were so lush on the vines we just had to have a few...here are some pictures from my day. hugs.














Sunday, August 20, 2006

A little woman and her bulletproof bus.

Where do I start, so much has happened in the last few days! Ok…here I go.

Last Tuesday I was supposed to go out with some friends to a bar near my current apartment for a few drinks. Ladies night out. One friend was feeling a little down and didn’t come out and then another hadn’t returned my call from earlier in the day. It was almost the time for action when she called me. I wasn’t expecting to hear what she told me…I know it is not surprising necessarily considering what has been going on here lately. Still. I was bowled over. She explained that she was in Ein Kerem hospital because a friend of hers who is in the army and had been in Lebanon during the last several weeks had been wounded. Shrapnel wounds in his legs and a broken leg. He had been in a house that was bombed an hour before the cease fire came into effect – a dozen bombs and somehow he survived. Not your normal “sorry, I won’t be coming out tonight” kind of story. In the states I know only a few people who serve in the military. Here in a way I know everyone. No matter how you slice it I know many. Hayiti b’shok. I was in shock.

On Thursday I went out to the first Pardes get together of the year. It was at the Dean’s house and there were about 20 people. A friend gave a few words of Torah. We introduced ourselves, ate food, told some stories. Chatted it up. It was short, sweet, and totally wet my appetite for meeting more people. I met one of the other people who is in the mechina year with me (we will both be at pardes for three full years). Afterwards I went out…and my night just got stranger from there on in. But it ended with me hanging out with a group of Israeli men just out of the army (that means about 22ish for the most part). In true me form I saw some cute guys and went and sat down at their table when I couldn’t find my group of friends…they didn’t mind☺. I got into good conversation with one of them and we are going out on a date in a few minutes…which is, by the way, the very FIRST date (not half date, accidental date, etc, of which I have had). That is what being in relationships the better part of a decade will do to you. I am a little skeptical. I have this theory that American girls and Israeli men aren’t so compatible. I’ll let you know. In any case he is cute, Italian and at least it will help my Hebrew! I just keep thinking about one of my girls from this year saying to me as her parting words, “Ms. G. you have to promise me that you’ll date at least ONE cute Israeli soldier.” Oy, here I go sweety.

On Friday I took a bus into….drum roll please….the West Bank. I went to a settlement called T’koa. It is about 30 years old and there are about 400 families there…a few thousand people. On the bus ride there I thought it was a bit bizarre that the windows on the sides of the bus were so thick…I couldn’t see through them. Well, actually it looked like I WOULD see through them, if I weren’t using my glasses. But I was sitting in the front so the bus driver could tell me when to get off. I had a good view. We drove through some checkpoints, we weren’t stopped though cause we were leaving Jerusalem, not entering. The drive took about 45 minutes and I descended from rocky windy craziness into a desert oasis. Granted, a politically difficult one for me to find myself in. Why, one might ask, did she go on a weekend trip to the West Bank. First I have to tell you two other things:

1) I had to get out of my apartment for the weekend cause my bed was needed.
2) I told my parents that I was going to a suburb of Jerusalem. This isn’t really a lie – it is a 20 minutes drive by car from Jerusalem. It is just not say, a drive to Manlius (for all you Syracusans out there – but there was actually considerably less traffic;).

I was going to spend shabbat with a friend that I made in ulpan. She is an olah chadasha, a new immigrant, and is engaged to a guy who was born and raised in T’koa and is building their home there. They are both great fun to be around and I am happy that I went out. I couldn’t take many pictures because I was there mostly just over Shabbat. But I did get a few for ya’ll. The house where I stayed overlooked a site called Herodian.

http://www.jewishmag.com/93mag/herodian/herodian.htm

(I don’t have the time right now to read the whole website to see how accurate it is, not that I am any great judge, but there are good pictures in any case).

So I found out from my friend that the bus windows looked the way they did because they are bulletproof. Mainly just the busses that go to the settlements are bulletproofed.

I arrived in the early afternoon and we spent the afternoon by the communal pool. Chatting, sunning, reading, eating. The community is on a series of hills that overlook the dead sea, Jordan, the Judean Desert. Whatever political qualms and questions I had while I was there, it was Fill My Soul beautiful and so so good to be back in the wilderness of Israel.

We spent Friday night in shul, and then eating a lovely dinner. It was a full house – and two very cute dogs to boot! On Saturday morning I woke up at about 930 (which was almost the end of shul, if you can believe it…why oh why does shul have to start so early!!) I read in a hammock...occasionally gazing out over the desert, past Herodian and into the distance towards Jordan. We laid around, read (I actually was able to understand the gist of an entire article in Hebrew!!!!!), they humored my many questions, we took a walk to a part of T’koa that overlooks the wadi that winds for miles and miles until it reaches the dead sea. Apparently people do a night hike where they reach the dead sea at daybreak…I hope I get to do that before I croak…well…that an a whole lot of other things☺

It was a really special place. Far removed from traffic and city-life. It is in the desert, as I said, and it seems like God put out all the stars at night so you would smile at them and say thanks. The air is crisp and dry. There are huge cacti, complete with sabra fruits galore. I even picked fresh figs off a tree and ate them (for the first time!:). The people were friendly and they all know each other. They don’t seem like radical settlers trying to claim the land for themselves. They seemed to me like nice people who are raising their families in a beautiful place…surrounded by Arab villages and Jewish ones too. Did they take land from the Arabs? They say, in their case at the very least, no. It was a vacant hill when they settled it. Were there Arabs around them, yes. For the most part they live in peace with their neighbors. They work together at times. They even protect each other at times.

Why did I decide to go to the shtachim, the settlements? Why did I take a bulletproof bus to spend shabbas in the desert? For one I love the desert in Israel. It is the most beautiful place that I have been. It reminded me of being 16 and finding God. It reminded me that I have lost my way a bit. It reminds me that I am small and that the world is beautiful. I went because I don’t think it is fair to judge the settlers without understanding their position, without physically visiting, without talking to them. I went because I need to constantly be reminded to see the infinite shades of grey that exist in the world. I still feel confused and unsure about my feelings and position on the settlements. I hope I am less so, or at least on a path to greater clarity on the issue.

Politics aside it was a lovely weekend and I am happy I went. I am sorry, Mom and Pops for not telling you the details of where I was going. I felt like I was making a safe-ish choice while I know that many of you might disagree. It was good to feel the desert wind again. I hope to go back sometime in the future, but who knows when now that school is starting.

Now, if you’ll excuse me, it is time to go on my first first date.

























Tuesday, August 15, 2006

hali-freakin-luya

Article: Reform youth: Condemn civilian killings
From: JTA (www.jta.org

Close to 50 Reform youth leaders urged the movement to address the deaths of civilians on both sides in the Israel-Hezbollah war.
“We applaud the Union for condemning Hezbollah’s and Hamas’ violent and terrifying rocket attacks on Israeli civilians, who have been put in grave danger by the ongoing conflict,” said the letter delivered Tuesday to leaders of the Union for Reform Judaism. But it adds: “We urge the Union to likewise condemn the Israeli Defense Force’s killing of unarmed Lebanese and Palestinian civilians, as well as its premeditated targeting of civilian infrastructure, which has put additional lives at risk and hampered relief efforts.”

The 48 student leaders, who represent the movement’s college-age and high-school-age programs, think their concerns have been shunted aside.

“As is appropriate for our Reform tradition, we embrace a diversity of viewpoints,” they write. “Unfortunately, we feel that our voice has been excluded from Union statements and materials, and we ask for inclusion.”


I cannot tell you how happy it makes me to see this - finally at least some of the Reform movements leaders are taking and alternative stance other than staunch and unconditional support for all of Israel's actions - and it is getting press attention. I am not saying they are right or wrong (im not so interested in the political talk these days but if you wanna get into it shoot me an email and maybe i will discuss)...but it is certainly refreshing to see people shaking it up a little.

Question for the day: Is it hard to be republican and or conservative and be active in the social action branch of the Reform movement (www.rac.org)? The Reform movement period?

Hebrew amazingness of the day: sovel = suffering
sovlanut = tolerance

same root? curious, no? is this a "thin line" example here?

Monday, August 14, 2006

Ethiopians have got it right im tellin ya...

spirits are up here in the holy land, it seems to me. i went out to an art festival with my friend Dan in an area of town called the Sultan's Pool - it is right next to the old city. as you walk towards it, all of a sudden, you see a valley filled with lights, life, music. it was a very cool sight, and that was just from the view! There was some great art (some not so great, admittedly:), food, music, and there were some random things that i found really great and amusing (such as the family nargila section which you can peruse below). below you will find some photos...there are just two that i want to explain cause the story behind them is freakin AMAZING! Ok, pay attention women.

The two photos of the small clay object on a blue table were taken at the Ethiopian stand. I was investigating these little boxes with Dan when I opened one up and found a naked, embracing couple. I thought this was hilarious and began to laugh my laugh and, as usual, make a (albeit small this time) scene. The woman at the stand came over and asked us if we knew the story behind the piece. We said no and this is what she said:

These are put on the bedside and when the woman...eh....how do you say...wants to make .....eh....love, she opens it. when she wants to not make love she leaves it closed.

You can imagine that my amusement and interest in this little trinket only increased with this glorious explanation. So, thats the answer all my women out there, for when you are just TOO DAMN TIRED! Hahahahaha!

Ok, im finished trying to electronically explain my amusement. I had a wonderful evening with a very interesting guy who kept my brain busy with good conversation and now its time to go to lala land. enjoy the pictures. much ahava.

PS - another incredibly amusing point in my day was in ulpan today when we learned that the words butter for compliment come from the same root. aint hebrew just grand!















Sunday, August 13, 2006

one year has passed me by...

last night as i drifted off to sleep i realized that this past Friday was one year since I had seen my ex - the man I thought I wanted to spend my life with. It was a sad and strange realization - one year since I last kissed him, held him, touched his stubbly face, was held in his arms. I realized that it is entirely possible that i will never see him again. His wonderful parents - them i am feel confident ill see. Him - not so much. I don't want my path to be different but it still feels like something is off - my best friend and partner of so many years has no role in my life at all. It is a bizarre feeling.

Switch topic here: i find it very intriguing the type of words i am learning in hebrew ulpan. I learn words every day like: attack, kill, rocket, injure, die, ground invasion. Not exactly the type of words i learned in spanish or latin back in the day in nottingham. that is current events for you.

i had a long day - ulpan, lunch with friends, study and hebrew for hours, event for work, dinner with friend...it is 12 and i have been moving since 7am...i have to stop now i think...my eyes wont stay open.

great word for the day: lizlol - to engorge, or satiate oneself

i am happy here in jerusalem, but i hope that i would be happy anywhere. Is that the true test of one's happiness?

i am happy, but one of my friends here is so clearly down for the count...and i feel like my happiness is not as complete because this person who i am beginning to care very much about is so troubled and down...i am not used to feeling this way - namely, being at a loss for what to do.

i hope this post was at least somewhat coherent.

Sweet dreams, when they come.

Thursday, August 10, 2006

crazy day, im tellin ya

Today I learned a useful adage which i need to remember so i don't keep walking down the same frustrating path: If you step into a hole once, it is the hole's fault. Twice - it's your own fault. But....is it still your fault if the hole has eyes that melt you and makes you laugh Big Laughs? Hmm...the answer to that is probably a resounding YES!

Today was an exhausting day - started off normal, got really good and then relative to the high point, pretty bad. Then to top it off there is some crazy stuff in the news today - the Hethrow attacks that were stopped, 15 soldiers were killed in the North yesterday. But it seems that the Israeli government is confident that it will reach a cease fire agreement with the Lebanese government soon. i think the end may be nearing. i am praying for it at least.

Here is an article by Roy Wagner at the JPost, i like what he has to say about the senselessness of this war and the role that the military organizations in Israel and Lebanon are playing...self preservation anyone?:



Contrary to common perceptions there is no war between the IDF and Hizbullah. It almost makes no sense to split up something as senseless as war into two distinct sides.

But if pressed to describe this war in terms of sides, then here it is: On the one side we have institutions whose purpose is to wage war - Hizbullah and the IDF. On the other side we have the victims who end up being terrorized, displaced or killed.

The irony is that the people on the victim side end up doing the fighting for the warmongers.

One cannot reproach the IDF or Hizbullah for waging war. That's their entire purpose. Without war the IDF and Hizbullah wouldn't exist. Their budgets would be cut, their jobs would be lost, and their clout would be gone. The IDF and Hizbullah both genuinely believe that war is a good way to resolve conflicts. War is their raison d' tre.

The ones we can and must reproach are governments - Israeli, Lebanese, American and many others - which are elected by the kind of people who end up as cannon fodder, but which prefer to take up the cause of militant organizations and warlords.

Instead of restraining militants, instead of representing the people who pay the price of war, our governments end up acting as a thin veil for militant institutions and for entrepreneurs who turn wars into profit.

WHAT IS unforgivable from a civilian's point of view is that during the six years since the IDF's retreat from Lebanon no attempt was made to reach a solution by negotiation. The powers that be managed to get the Syrian army out of Lebanon, but despite this diplomatic success they made no more diplomatic efforts to pacify the area. These powers were content to allow a highly volatile situation to insist.

Southern Lebanon was abandoned to Hizbullah militants, who have less to lose, and are therefore more difficult to restrain, than the Syrian army. As a result the "achievement" of removing the Syrian army from Lebanon turned out to be a further step toward war.

Since then Syrian offers for negotiation have been systematically turned down. Palestinian offers for negotiations have also been ignored.

No one attempted to help the Lebanese government, which has a vested interest in controlling southern Lebanon, to implement its sovereignty there.

During the past six years the Israeli government never announced that it was willing to negotiate a release of Lebanese prisoners and a withdrawal from the Shaba area in return for the withdrawal of Hizbullah from southern Lebanon.

Would such an offer have led to a peaceful resolution? We can never know. But the fact that no such offer was made is unforgivable.

Instead all governments involved allowed militants - Israeli, Palestinian and Lebanese - to go on terrorizing, killing and kidnapping for six years. And indeed, the war they were striving for did eventually erupt.

When Hizbullah attacked, instead of seizing this opportunity to force a diplomatic intervention which would lead to negotiations and a genuine advance toward peace, the Israeli government elected to wage war.

CASUALTIES, refugees and economic damage on both sides of the border result from the failure to talk. After all, if negotiations fail, one can always resort to war. But the Israeli government refused to try the peaceful solution first.

This war will not destroy Hizbullah. The organization, which survived 18 years of fighting, will not be eradicated by a two-month blitz. Whatever is destroyed, hate and despair will restore sevenfold.

If we can learn something from the history of the Middle East, it is that popular militant groups do not understand the language of force. Fighting does not weaken militant resistance. It motivates them and replenishes their ranks.

Hizbullah and the IDF claim as their goal to destroy each other. But both parties quietly concede that neither can actually achieve this goal. The only way to genuinely bring this endless conflict to a close is to talk - with whoever is willing.

True, there will always be some who refuse to talk. But these peace-refuseniks cannot stand for long. Militants cannot survive without the active or passive support of the governments around them. Refusing to accept the Syrian invitations to negotiate is, therefore, tantamount to instigating war.

SO WE MUST talk and talk until we talk our mouths off. After all, it's better to talk your mouth off than to lose your head in war. True, the Israeli government can impose a cease-fire and summon international intervention without negotiation. But unless we do negotiate and compromise, such a maneuver will only make for a short pause until the next round of fighting.

This is the war of - rather than between - IDF and Hizbullah. It is waged against displaced people and against those slaughtered by rockets and by airborne bombs. Its victims are those poor young people who are forced into believing that pulling triggers can resolve conflicts.
Now it's time that our side, the side of victims and of cannon fodder, stood up to the militants, and forced our governments to talk.



[b'ezrat hashem!]



Meet: my tan feet. I don't have any recent photos to show you as i write on this fine evening in Jerusalem...so here is something a little closer to home. I quite enjoy my tan line from the flip flops i wear every day - i was told recently that it was very israeli of me:) I give them two thumbs up.


Monday, August 07, 2006

And we'll collect the moments one by one, I guess that's how the future's done - Feist

I have a few moments to tell about and I hope it gives a sense of my general state of mind, how I have been spending my time and what my life has been like the last week.

Moment number 1:

So, as I have said, in Israel shabbas plans are an ordeal..people make plans days in advance - a week, maybe even two...craziness. It is a time to chill the hell out. Talk to friends. I find my 24 hours of hightened holiness filled every week with food, praying, hanging out, sleeping and reading. Who wouldn't want to celebrate a day where you are obligated to chill out. Anyway, at a recent shabbat meal at my friend Rachel's apartment we were sitting around the table drinking our wine, eating our food and having our laughs when we got into a discussion about the reluctance of Israelis to admit when there are common yisddishisms that have been adopted into modern Hebrew. Now, there were all anglos around the table and one Israeli, a sabra (someone who was born in Israel). Someone brought up the word mentch. I would define someone who is a mentch as someone who does the Right Thing. They are morally upright and do the Right Thing no matter potential gain or personal recognition. Something like that. Now, all of the anglos around the table knew what the word meant, at least could give an example of an action that was "mentch-like". The only person who didn't know what the word meant was our lone sabra. He did, however, know a different word - frier. Most of the anglos around the table, including me, had never heard of the word before. The woman who was explaining all this did and the sabra did. A frier, from what i could get, is someone who gets taken advantage of. For example, if you have ever driven in Israel (so I hear:), and you get cut off or let someone in in heavy traffic, then you are a frier. I know it is difficult to replicate a room full of people laughing at a linguistic-cultural oddity, but there we were. I am curious what my israeli friends out there think of this idea: Israelis arent't taught to be a mentch, they are taught NOT to be a frier.

By the way, Israelis are known for being very abrupt, snappy perhaps, in your face, some might even say rude. Tough on the outside perhaps. That is the stereotype anyway. The word sabra is the word used to signify someone who was born (and raised?) in Israel. A sabra is a fruit that you find on a cactus - it is very tough on the outside but of course sweet on the inside. I find it so interesting the way israelis have personal interactions. They crack me up. They will give you a hard time, but you persist, you let them give you a hard time and then they at some point break and help you out. It is like dealing with my mom - she always says no first and gives me a hard time and then slowly she sees a way to work things out. I love you mom, a non-sabra with an israeli mentality? :)

moment two:

This past week I moved into my rosh yeshiva's apartment in Abu Tor. It is a beautiful apartment and it overlooks the tayelet - or promenade. I don't know how I got so lucky but I have a month in a great place, no rent and nice people to live with. THen I move into my long term place in late august! So, last Friday i went gorcery shopping in the morning with Isaac, one of the rosh yeshiva's kids.

We were in a hardware store (by hardware store i mean small shop stuffed to the brim with knicknacks and no hope of finding something on your own:) getting a key copied. Isaac was speaking with one of the clerks and another came up to me where I was standing (with my arms open in front of a fan - it has been SO hot lately!) and asked if i needed something. I said, "lo toda, anachnu b'yachad," "no thanks, we are together."

So now i have to disclose another piece of information for the story to be understood. You see, i cover my hair when i don't have time to shower in the morning which was the case on this particular morning. I use a big scarf and wrap it into a bun at the top of my neck. I was wearing a tank top and shorts. All together that is a covered head, and shorts and a tank top. My friend dan today said that i was in a sense dressed like a frum slut. hahahaha! a frum slut. Ok - a frum person is a religious person. A frum woman covers her hair after she gets married but also wouldn't be caught dead wearing shorts and a tank top.

So of course I don't have a wedding ring, im not married (btw God, i AM still waiting here:). But having your head covered is kind of a sign that you are - and in Jerusalem I suppose anything is possible. Even if i was showing off my legs and shoulders the clerks in the store COULD assume that i am frum and married.

So as we are leaving the store one of the guys comes up to isaac and gives him a bag with two mugs in it. He then says to us, "matana lazug ha'tza'ir" - "a present for the young couple."

Varda, i hope you are laughing cause i swear i could hear you laughing at the time...all the way in Cuse.

So apparently I am a frum, married woman who is living in Jerusalem. But thats only my day job. at night i am secretly negotiating peace between hizbulla and israel, solving our energy use dillema and learning to go fly a kite.

much love. big hugs. hearty laughs.

Sunday, August 06, 2006

a bit too pensive a mood for my own liking...



















Still here, that which sustains me
Not directed but remaining in tact
Waiting
Eager
Potential, becoming kinetic, erratic love
Incapable of being contained

I am radiating
what was dormant but always there

I knew it then
I feel it now.

But I felt it too, in quiet solitude,
When no one distracted me from my loneliness
My missing what Was Once There.




...rachel is leavingin a few days. life continues for my family and I can't be a part of it. I am going to study with a friend, don't really want to be alone...

(ps: above is another photo from my tiyul last week)

Friday, August 04, 2006

busy week, time for shabbas

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hezekiah_tunnel

well folks, i have gotten myself into a squeeze with time and getting ready for shabbas, so I will have to post early next week cause i have a lot to catch up on. In the mean time here are some pics from a tiyul (hike, trip) that I took this week with my ulpan. I went to David's City and Hezekiah's Tunnel. We learned about the siege that David laid on the city, which was then Jebus, and we took a walk through an archeological site called Hezekiah's Tunnel which is several hundred meters long and has a foot or so of water running through it. Check out the link. It was a very enjoyable day and evening but very very exhausting. I was glad I did it, even though I didn't get my Hebrew homework done:) Oops. Shabbat shalom. There are many of you that I haven't been in touch with and I am sorry, I will do better now that I am in a more stable living arrangement. Much love.

Photos: the village of silwan, an arab village in East Jerusalem; our cute (but TOTALLY Israeli smart-ass) tour guide; my friend Jeremy and I; the group making its way through the tunnel (the water was so nice!); graffiti outside the end of the tunnel; a man named Yitzchak who was sitting smoking his cig and takin it easy near the exit of the tunnel...cute old man, no?

By the way, I live in Jerusalem...WTF. How did I get this lucky.

That is a little explanation, hope I am improving my blogging etiquette.